The place, briefly
Versailles began as somewhere to sleep after a day's hunting. The future Louis XIII came out for his first hunt on 24 August 1607, liked the woods and the game, and in late 1623 ordered a small lodge built where he could stay the night; he first used it in June 1624. He had it rebuilt from 1631, work that ran to 1634 and laid the base of the building that stands now. His son Louis XIV was three when he first came, in October 1641, and forty when he settled the government here. From 1661 the king built without stopping: the forecourt in 1662, Louis Le Vau's enveloping façades in 1668–1670, the Pavilions of the Secretaries of State in 1670–1671, the South Wing in 1679–1681, the Grand Commun in 1681–1684, the North Wing in 1685–1689 and the Royal Chapel in 1699–1710.
The move itself has a date. On 6 May 1682 Versailles became the headquarters of the government, and although Paris never stopped being the official capital, the kingdom was run from here until 1789. Jean-Baptiste Colbert, the king's controller-general, had wanted the court kept in Paris and was overruled. Louis XIV disliked the capital, which he had been forced to leave in haste in 1649 during the Fronde, the civil wars of 1648 to 1653, and at Versailles he had room to build. Between 1678 and 1682 he built more than in his previous twenty years on the throne.
The Hall of Mirrors is the room everything else in the palace leads to. Jules Hardouin-Mansart began it in 1678 in place of an open terrace that had proved impractical, and finished it in 1684. It runs 73 metres. Seventeen mirrored arcades face seventeen windows, carrying 357 mirrors at a time when a mirror was a luxury and the Venetians held the trade; Charles Le Brun painted thirty compositions across the vault, covering the first eighteen years of the reign up to the peace treaties of Nijmegen. Courtiers crossed it every day, and on rare occasions it was cleared for ceremony: the Doge of Genoa was received here in 1685, the ambassadors of Siam in 1686, of Persia in 1715 and of the Ottoman Empire in 1742. Two later ceremonies were not French ideas. Otto von Bismarck had the German Empire proclaimed in this room on 18 January 1871, after France's defeat by Prussia, and on 28 June 1919 the Allies made the German delegation sign the peace treaty in the same room, at a Louis XV desk placed beneath a painting of Louis XIV titled The King governs by himself. That session lasted fifty minutes and was attended by twenty-seven delegations representing thirty-two powers.
The royal family left for the Tuileries Palace in Paris on 6 October 1789 and did not come back. The building was not sacked. What emptied it was legislation: a law of 10 June 1793 ordered the contents of the former crown palaces sold, and between 25 August 1793 and 11 August 1794 no fewer than 17,182 lots went under the hammer, most of them bought by Paris dealers. The paintings and sculptures had already gone the other way, to the new Central Museum for the Arts at the Louvre, which opened in August 1793. Every fleur-de-lis, crown and royal monogram was chiselled off. The Convention declared the palace a public establishment on 8 July 1793, and a museum opened inside it in 1796. Charles Dickens came out to see it in January 1847, on a fortnight of sightseeing with his biographer John Forster that took in the Louvre, the Morgue and the prisons as well.
What Dickens saw was Louis-Philippe's idea. The king of the French decided on 1 September 1833 to turn the palace into a history museum dedicated to "all the glories of France", spent four years and twenty million from his own civil list on it, and inaugurated it on 10 June 1837 in the Gallery of Great Battles, with Victor Hugo, Alexandre Dumas and Eugène Delacroix among the guests. The building has been a museum ever since, and the decision saved it: a palace with a public purpose was no longer a royal residence waiting for an occupant.
Versailles today is state property, classed as a historic monument by an order of 31 October 1906 and inscribed on the World Heritage list, run as a public establishment under the ministry of culture. A storm on 26 December 1999 took 10,000 trees out of the park and caused damage estimated at 250 million francs, and the replanting was used to restore André Le Nôtre's original layout. Restoration of the buildings has run since 2003 under a programme called Le Grand Versailles, and the Dufour Pavilion, rebuilt by the architect Dominique Perrault, opened in February 2016 as the main entrance. The estate also commissions living artists. Since 2008 it has given one of them the palace and gardens for a few months at a time: Jeff Koons in 2008, Xavier Veilhan in 2009, Takashi Murakami in 2010, Bernar Venet in 2011, Joana Vasconcelos in 2012, Giuseppe Penone in 2013, Lee Ufan in 2014, Anish Kapoor in 2015, Olafur Eliasson in 2016, a group show in 2017 and Hiroshi Sugimoto in 2018, with Eva Jospin in the Orangery in 2024. The 2015 invitation is the one that turned into a court case. Kapoor put six works in the gardens from 9 June, the largest of them a sixty-metre steel horn called Dirty Corner; it was defaced three times over the summer, he refused to have the slogans cleaned off, a tribunal in Versailles ordered them removed, and he covered them in gold leaf instead. One earlier commission stayed for good: the Water Theatre Grove, replanted in 2015 to a design by the landscape architect Louis Benech and the artist Jean-Michel Othoniel.