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Apartment · Faubourg-Poissonnière (9th) · 9e arrondissement

39 rue Bleue

The buildingStill standing
Getting inOutside only
What's there nowSomeone else

Private. The street was the rue d'Enfer in 1861 and is now the rue Bleue — not to be confused with the other, better-known rue d'Enfer on the Left Bank, which became the avenue Denfert-Rochereau and the boulevard Saint-Michel.

Where Paul Cézanne lodged when he arrived in Paris in 1861 at twenty-two, having finally won his banker father's permission to paint — and where he lasted a matter of months before retreating to Aix.

Address
39 rue Bleue, 75009 Paris
Years
Cézanne's first Paris address, 1861

The place, briefly

Paul Cézanne came to Paris in April 1861. His father, a hat-maker turned banker in Aix, had wanted him in law and then in the family bank, and had resisted the idea of painting for years. Émile Zola, his schoolfriend from Aix, was already in Paris and had been writing to him relentlessly to come.

He took a room at 39 rue d'Enfer, in the 9th — a street since renamed the rue Bleue. The name causes confusion, because the famous rue d'Enfer was on the Left Bank and became the avenue Denfert-Rochereau; this was a different street of the same name.

The visit went badly. He drew at the Académie Suisse, was intimidated by the standard around him, quarrelled with Zola, and by September he had given up and gone home to Aix to work in his father's bank. He lasted about five months.

He came back. The pattern of his life is this shuttle — Paris and Aix, arrival and retreat, repeated for forty years — and it starts at this door.

Key facts

When
April to September 1861
Historic street name
rue d'Enfer — now the rue Bleue
Not to be confused with
The Left Bank rue d'Enfer, now avenue Denfert-Rochereau
What happened
He lost his nerve after five months and went back to Aix to work in his father's bank
Access
Private — exterior only

Timeline

  1. 1861

    Cézanne arrives in Paris in April and lodges at 39 rue d'Enfer.

  2. 1861

    He abandons Paris in September and returns to Aix.

  3. 1862

    He comes back to Paris and begins again.

On the map

Questions before you go

Where did Cézanne first live in Paris?

At 39 rue d'Enfer in the 9th arrondissement, now 39 rue Bleue, from April 1861. He stayed about five months before returning to Aix.

Is this the same rue d'Enfer as the one near Denfert-Rochereau?

No. Two Paris streets carried the name. This one, in the 9th, became the rue Bleue; the Left Bank rue d'Enfer became the avenue Denfert-Rochereau and part of the boulevard Saint-Michel.

People who knew this place

Illustrated portrait of Paul Cézanne

Paul Cézanne

French · Painter

Cezanne's first Paris address, at what was then 39 rue d'Enfer in the 9th and is now the rue Bleue. He arrived in April 1861 and gave up and returned to Aix in September.

Within walking distance

The Friday Letter

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