
Paul Cézanne
Cezanne's first Paris address, at what was then 39 rue d'Enfer in the 9th and is now the rue Bleue. He arrived in April 1861 and gave up and returned to Aix in September.
Where Paul Cézanne lodged when he arrived in Paris in 1861 at twenty-two, having finally won his banker father's permission to paint — and where he lasted a matter of months before retreating to Aix.
Paul Cézanne came to Paris in April 1861. His father, a hat-maker turned banker in Aix, had wanted him in law and then in the family bank, and had resisted the idea of painting for years. Émile Zola, his schoolfriend from Aix, was already in Paris and had been writing to him relentlessly to come.
He took a room at 39 rue d'Enfer, in the 9th — a street since renamed the rue Bleue. The name causes confusion, because the famous rue d'Enfer was on the Left Bank and became the avenue Denfert-Rochereau; this was a different street of the same name.
The visit went badly. He drew at the Académie Suisse, was intimidated by the standard around him, quarrelled with Zola, and by September he had given up and gone home to Aix to work in his father's bank. He lasted about five months.
He came back. The pattern of his life is this shuttle — Paris and Aix, arrival and retreat, repeated for forty years — and it starts at this door.
Cézanne arrives in Paris in April and lodges at 39 rue d'Enfer.
He abandons Paris in September and returns to Aix.
He comes back to Paris and begins again.
At 39 rue d'Enfer in the 9th arrondissement, now 39 rue Bleue, from April 1861. He stayed about five months before returning to Aix.
No. Two Paris streets carried the name. This one, in the 9th, became the rue Bleue; the Left Bank rue d'Enfer became the avenue Denfert-Rochereau and part of the boulevard Saint-Michel.

Cezanne's first Paris address, at what was then 39 rue d'Enfer in the 9th and is now the rue Bleue. He arrived in April 1861 and gave up and returned to Aix in September.
The Paris offices of the Chicago Tribune, where Henry Miller worked as a proofreader in 1931 — the only steady paid work of his Paris decade, taken on the night shift while he wrote Tropic of Cancer.
Visit the placeThe modest concert hall where the Prélude à l'après-midi d'un faune was first performed on 22 December 1894 — a piece often treated as the beginning of modern music, premièred in a room almost nobody has heard of.
Visit the placeThe old Paris Conservatoire, which Claude Debussy entered in 1872 at the age of ten and did not leave for more than a decade — the institution he spent the rest of his life arguing with.
Visit the placeThe Paris auction house where Gustave Caillebotte bid on his friends' unsellable pictures to keep prices up and money flowing — and where Paul Gauguin sold thirty of his own paintings to pay for Tahiti.
Visit the placeThe Friday Letter
The cafés, studios, and walk-up flats where the work was made — one story from the map in every letter.