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Café · Montparnasse (Notre-Dame-des-Champs) · 6e arrondissement

29–31 rue Vavin

The buildingStill standing
Getting inOutside only
What's there nowA supermarket

Chez les Vikings is gone. The buildings stand — number 31 is now a supermarket — so the address is visible from the street but there is nothing of the café left.

The address of Chez les Vikings, a Scandinavian tavern in Montparnasse where Henry Miller and Anaïs Nin met regularly in the early 1930s. Miller headed a letter of 4 March 1932 from its tables. The café is gone; the buildings remain.

Address
29–31 rue Vavin, 75006 Paris
Years
Where Miller and Anaïs Nin met, in the early 1930s
IllustrationBright present-day color view of 29–31 rue Vavin

The exact current façades in bright daylight; no fabric of the former tavern survives inside.

Editorial illustration

The place, briefly

Chez les Vikings — the Taverne Scandinave — occupied the adjoining buildings at 29 and 31 rue Vavin, a short street between the boulevard Raspail and the Luxembourg. It was one of the many small foreign-run places that made Montparnasse in the 1920s and 30s: not a landmark café, just a room where a particular set of people could be found.

Henry Miller and Anaïs Nin met here regularly in the early 1930s, in the period when their relationship and their writing were forming around each other.[1]

The evidence is unusually exact for a vanished café, because Miller wrote from it. A surviving letter of 4 March 1932 is headed "Chez les Vikings, Taverne Scandinave, 29 et 31 rue Vavin" — the establishment's own name and its own address, written at its own tables. Columbia University's architectural archive confirms that it occupied both adjoining numbers.[2]

That heading is why this address can be published with confidence while others in Miller's Paris cannot. Most of the map is reconstruction; this is a letterhead.[3]

Nothing of the tavern survives. Number 31 is now a supermarket. What you get is the street, the two buildings, and the knowledge of what was in them.

Key facts

What it was
Chez les Vikings, a Scandinavian tavern occupying both 29 and 31 rue Vavin
Who met here
Henry Miller and Anaïs Nin, regularly, in the early 1930s
The evidence
A Miller letter of 4 March 1932 headed with the tavern's name and this address
Confirmed by
Columbia University's architectural archive, for the two adjoining buildings
Today
Gone — number 31 is a supermarket; the buildings stand
The adjoining buildings that once held Chez les Vikings, with the corner now occupied by a supermarket.Editorial illustration
The exact current façades in bright daylight; no fabric of the former tavern survives inside.Editorial illustration
An evidence-led reconstruction of the Scandinavian tavern across its documented adjoining addresses.Artistic reconstruction
Surviving building geometry and the two-address footprint are anchored; exact signs, colors and patrons are interpretive.Artistic reconstruction
A closer pavement view of number 29 and the altered ground-floor bays today.Editorial illustration
A plausible ordinary evening in the modest tavern, populated entirely by newly invented patrons.Artistic reconstruction
An interpretive view of a compact bar and cabaret corner; no known person is depicted.Artistic reconstruction

Timeline

  1. Early 1930s

    Miller and Anaïs Nin meet regularly at Chez les Vikings.

  2. 4 March 1932

    Miller writes a letter headed "Chez les Vikings, Taverne Scandinave, 29 et 31 rue Vavin".

On the map

Questions before you go

What was Chez les Vikings?

A Scandinavian tavern — the Taverne Scandinave — occupying the adjoining buildings at 29 and 31 rue Vavin in Montparnasse. It was one of the small foreign-run places that made the quarter in the 1920s and 30s, and Henry Miller and Anaïs Nin met there regularly in the early 1930s.

How do we know Miller was there?

Because he wrote from it. A surviving letter of 4 March 1932 is headed "Chez les Vikings, Taverne Scandinave, 29 et 31 rue Vavin" — the name and address in his own letterhead. Columbia's architectural archive confirms the tavern occupied both adjoining numbers.

Is there anything to see?

Only the buildings. The tavern is long gone and number 31 is now a supermarket. The address is on the standard Montparnasse walk, a couple of streets from the Dôme and the Rotonde.

Writers who knew this place

Illustrated portrait of Anaïs Nin

Anaïs Nin

French-Cuban-American · Diarist of the century — sixty years of the most famous journal in modern literature, Henry Miller's first champion, and, posthumously, the best-selling erotic writer of her age.

Frequented by · 1932

Chez les Vikings, the Scandinavian tavern on the rue Vavin where Nin and Henry Miller met regularly in the early 1930s, as their relationship and their writing formed around each other. A Miller letter of 4 March 1932 is headed from its tables.

— Henry Miller: New Perspectives

Illustrated portrait of Henry Miller

Henry Miller

American · The Brooklyn dropout who arrived in Paris broke at thirty-eight and wrote the exuberant, banned books that ended American censorship.

Frequented by · 1932

Chez les Vikings, the Scandinavian tavern where Miller and Anaïs Nin met regularly. Miller headed a letter of 4 March 1932 from its tables with the tavern's name and this address.

— Henry Miller: New Perspectives

Within walking distance

References

References

The sources below include histories, archival materials, scholarly research, and official records that informed this page. They document 29–31 rue Vavin, the people connected to it, and its place in Paris.

  1. 1↑Henry Miller: The Paris Years

    Biography
    Brassaï, 1995
    Used for

    Biographical evidence used to verify chronology, relationships, and historical context connected to 29–31 rue Vavin.

  2. 2↑Henry Miller: New Perspectives

    Nonfiction
    Bloomsbury Academic
    Used for

    On Chez les Vikings as a regular meeting place for Miller and Anaïs Nin, and the 4 March 1932 letter headed from its address.

    View source
  1. 3↑Anaïs Nin — biography

    Website
    The Anaïs Nin Foundation
    Used for

    Web source consulted for documented facts and historical context presented on the 29–31 rue Vavin page.

    View source
  2. 4OpenStreetMap

    Map data
    Used for

    Map data used to verify addresses, geographic coordinates, and the placement associated with 29–31 rue Vavin.

    View source
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Why these sources are here

These references provide the documented foundation for this page's history and context. Claim-level citations remain attached to the specific claims they support.

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