Calais, Paris, and the donkey
They left before dawn on 28 July 1814 — Mary, Percy and Claire — on what their book records as a hotter day than has been known in this climate for many years. Rather than wait for the packet boat at Dover — the scheduled cross-Channel sailing that carried mail and passengers to Calais — they hired a small vessel that evening, and the crossing that had been promised in two hours took all night in a violent wind. They reached Calais in the morning, stayed there that day and most of the next, and arrived in Paris, in the book's own words, the next day about two.
Paris then held them still. Nobody would let rooms by the day, so they were obliged to engage apartments at an hotel for a week: a bedchamber, a closet with a bed in it and an antechamber they used as a sitting room, expensive and disappointing, and so hot that they mostly stayed indoors. Percy's expected money did not come. The book calls the week a kind of imprisonment, and it ended only when a small remittance arrived and set them free.
Their solution to the next stage was not a carriage. They decided to buy an ass — a donkey — to carry the luggage and, by turns, one of them; Percy and Claire went to the ass market and bought it. They packed a few necessaries, sent the rest by the diligence, which was the public stagecoach, and left the hotel door in a fiacre, a hired cab, with the little ass following behind. The donkey turned out to be too weak to carry a person at all, so they sold it and bought a mule for ten Napoleons, the gold twenty-franc coins that still carried the deposed emperor's head.
South-east of Paris the walk stopped being a lark. At Nogent-sur-Seine they found a town, in the book's spelling, entirely desolated by the Cossacs — the Cossacks, the Russian cavalry of the allied armies that had crossed France that spring and forced Napoleon's abdication in April. Houses had been burned, cattle killed and every kind of property destroyed. At the village of Echemine they found cottages without roofs and blackened beams, and inhabitants who did not yet know that Napoleon had been deposed, because news travelled between French towns more slowly than three young English travellers on foot. They kept going through Troyes and on into Switzerland, reached Brunnen on the Lake of Lucerne on 23 August with twenty-eight pounds between them and nothing more due until December, and turned round almost at once — home by water, down the Reuss and the Rhine and out through Germany and Holland, because it was cheaper. The whole excursion took six weeks.