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Apartment · Champ de Mars (Gros-Caillou) · 7e arrondissement

2 Square de Robiac

The buildingStill standing
Getting inOutside only
What's there nowA private home

The building stands unmarked in its private cul-de-sac, still privately lived-in.

James Joyce's longest Paris address — the family flat in a quiet cul-de-sac off the rue de Grenelle, with the cool quiet study where Work in Progress cost twelve hundred hours a chapter.

Address
2 Square de Robiac (off 192 Rue de Grenelle), 75007 Paris
Years
1925–1931
IllustrationThe Square de Robiac in soft daylight, pale stone and cobbles curving past the doorway of No. 2

Quiet enough to cost twelve hundred hours a chapter.

Editorial illustration

The place, briefly

The Joyces were the most nomadic famous household in Paris — nearly twenty addresses in as many years — but the flat at 2 Square de Robiac held them from 1925 to 1931, longer than anywhere else in the city. The square is barely a square at all: a small private cul-de-sac off the rue de Grenelle in the quiet Gros-Caillou, a neighborhood of ministries and matrons a world away from the café quarters. By the time they moved in, Ulysses had made Joyce the most famous banned author alive; Robiac was where he settled down to become something stranger.

This is the flat of the Work in Progress years — the book that would emerge in 1939 as Finnegans Wake, appearing meanwhile in fragments in Ford's transatlantic review and Jolas's transition while the quarter argued about whether it meant anything. Huddleston, visiting the 'cool quiet study by the Champ de Mars,' recorded Joyce's own defense: the new work was not meaningless, because meaningless writing is quick — and these twenty pages had cost twelve hundred hours and an enormous expense of spirit. Family dinners, readings in the thin clear voice, and a decade of failing eyesight all ran through the same rooms.

The family left in 1931, bound for London and a long-delayed wedding, and the household resumed its wandering. The cul-de-sac remains as quiet as Joyce chose it for, and the building stands — the stillest address in our Joyce geography, which otherwise runs through a bookshop.

In their words

‘Critics who were most appreciative of “Ulysses,”’ he told me as we talked together one afternoon in his cool quiet study by the Champ de Mars, ‘are complaining about my new work. They cannot understand it. Therefore they say it is meaningless. Now if it were meaningless it could be written quickly, without thought, without pains, without erudition; but I assure you that these twenty pages now before us cost me twelve hundred hours and an enormous expense of spirit.’
Sisley Huddleston, Paris Salons, Cafés, Studios (1928) — Joyce on Work in Progress, in the study here

Key facts

What it was
The Joyce family flat, 1925–1931 — his longest Paris address
The work
The Work in Progress years — the drafts that became Finnegans Wake (1939)
The witness
Huddleston interviewed Joyce in the study here — the 'twelve hundred hours' defense
Today
A private building in a private cul-de-sac, as quiet as he chose it for
The cul-de-sac off the rue de Grenelle — the stillest address in Joyce's Paris.Editorial illustration
Quiet enough to cost twelve hundred hours a chapter.Editorial illustration

Timeline

  1. 1925

    The Joyces move into the flat off the rue de Grenelle in June.

  2. 1927

    transition begins serializing Work in Progress; the study becomes the defense headquarters.

  3. 1931

    The family leaves for London in April; the wandering resumes.

  4. Today

    The building stands unmarked in its cul-de-sac.

On the map

Related books

Cover of Paris Salons, Cafés, Studios by Sisley Huddleston

Depicted in its pages

Paris Salons, Cafés, Studios

Sisley Huddleston · 1928

Joyce's cool quiet study by the Champ de Mars — where Huddleston heard the twelve-hundred-hours defense of Work in Progress.

Writers who knew this place

Illustrated portrait of James Joyce

James Joyce

Irish · Dublin's great exile — he left Ireland at twenty-two, carried the city with him through Trieste, Zurich, and Paris, and rebuilt it entire in Ulysses.

Lived here · 1925–1931

The Joyce family's longest Paris home — the flat of the Work in Progress years, where Huddleston heard the 'twelve hundred hours' defense in the cool quiet study.

Richard Ellmann, James Joyce (1959); Sisley Huddleston, Paris Salons, Cafés, Studios (1928)

Illustrated portrait of Sisley Huddleston

Sisley Huddleston

British · The Times's man in Paris — the journalist who knew every table in the quarter, French and Anglo-American alike, and wrote the era down while it was happening.

Sisley Huddleston wrote about 2 Square de Robiac in Paris Salons, Cafés, Studios.

Within walking distance

The Friday Letter

Paris, one address at a time.

The cafés, studios, and walk-up flats where the work was made — one story from the map in every letter.

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