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Cover of Paris Salons, Cafés, Studios by Sisley Huddleston

Paris Salons, Cafés, Studios

by Sisley Huddleston

A Times correspondent's eyewitness tour of the salons and café tables of 1920s Paris — Joyce, Pound, Sylvia Beach, and the young Hemingway, sketched from the next chair.

Published
1928
Setting
Paris
Shelf rating
4.1

About Sisley Huddleston

Illustrated portrait of Sisley Huddleston
Sisley Huddleston

1 book on our shelves

The story, briefly

Spoiler-free

Huddleston was the best-connected English journalist in Paris, and in 1928 he wrote it all down while it was still happening: Paul Fort holding court at the Closerie des Lilas, Sylvia Beach deciding to publish Ulysses, Pound turning composer, the Ballet Mécanique riot, the tourists in pearls slumming at the Rotonde — and a young Hemingway, freshly famous, affectionately parodied in his own style. Half the rooms in this book are on our map; this is what they sounded like from a chair inside.

The story, in more detail

Huddleston had the best seat in Paris and knew it. The Times of London sent him to cover the 1919 Peace Conference; he stayed to cover everything else, and by the mid-twenties the portly Englishman presiding over the Anglo-American press lunches knew both literary Parises — the French one of Paul Fort and the academies, and the foreign one assembling at the Dôme and the rue de l'Odéon — better than anyone writing in English.

In 1928 he did the sensible, priceless thing: he wrote it all down while it was still happening. Salon by salon, café by café, studio by studio, the book tours the era mid-performance — Sylvia Beach deciding to publish Ulysses, Pound turning composer, the riots at modernist premieres, and a newly famous young Hemingway, whose hunt for a simple style Huddleston had watched at the press lunches and whose finished manner he affectionately parodies in these pages.

Lippincott published it in America in 1928; Britain got it from Harrap as Bohemian Literary and Social Life in Paris. It sold as journalism and survives as testimony: no hindsight, no legend-polishing, no idea how any of it would end. The book is now in the public domain — free to read — and half its rooms are on our map, which makes it something like our founding document, written from the next chair.

What's inside

A guided tour of literary and artistic Paris in the twenties, written by the Times correspondent who had a chair in every room. Huddleston organizes it the way the city organized itself: by salon, café, and studio — the French literary world of Paul Fort and the academies on one side, the Anglo-American colony of Montparnasse on the other, and the traffic between them that most memoirs never mention. Sylvia Beach and the publishing of Ulysses, Pound's operatic experiments, the riots that greeted the new music and painting, the tourist invasion of the Rotonde — all reported as news, because it still was.

The pleasure is the eyewitness present tense: nobody in these pages knows how the story ends, least of all the affectionately parodied young Hemingway. Chapters stand alone, so the book rewards browsing — start with a room you know from our map and read outward. It is the era's best single piece of testimony from the next chair, and it is in the public domain: the whole thing can be read free online.

Quotes from Paris Salons, Cafés, Studios

Passages from the book at the places on our map — quoted verbatim, each where it happens.

The evenings of the Closerie des Lilas come back to me vividly. The Prince of Poets sat in state on an upholstered bench of the café; while around him was his court of writers … To the drinking of coffee and of bocks, poetry was recited, analysed, and appraised.
Sisley Huddleston, Paris Salons, Cafés, Studios (1928) · at La Closerie des Lilas
Once upon a time the Closerie des Lilas at the corner of the Boulevard du Montparnasse was a guinguette — a country-inn on the route to Fontainebleau. Baudelaire frequented it.
Sisley Huddleston, Paris Salons, Cafés, Studios (1928) · at La Closerie des Lilas
My attention was first called to them by a tremendous row one evening at the Closerie des Lilas. Chairs hurtled through the air, crockery crashed through the window.
Sisley Huddleston, Paris Salons, Cafés, Studios (1928) — on the Surrealists · at La Closerie des Lilas

All 16 Paris Salons, Cafés, Studios quotes →

Why we recommend it

  1. The witness across the table

    Huddleston isn't remembering an era forty years later — he's reporting it in 1928, with Joyce still reading aloud, Beach still at the shop, and the Surrealists still throwing chairs at the Closerie.

  2. Both Parises, not just the expat one

    Paul Fort, Maeterlinck, and the French literary world share these pages with the Anglo-Americans — the half of café life the expatriate memoirs mostly walked past.

  3. It's our map in prose, and it's free

    The Closerie, the Rotonde, the Dôme, the Select, Shakespeare and Company — chapter by chapter, the very rooms on our map, and the book is public domain.

What this book explores

Timeline

  1. 1919

    The Times of London sends Huddleston to cover the Peace Conference; he stays, and by the mid-twenties presides over the Anglo-American press lunches, knowing both literary Parises better than anyone writing in English.

  2. 1928

    He writes it down while it is still happening: Lippincott publishes it in America, Harrap in Britain as Bohemian Literary and Social Life in Paris.

Book editions

Hardcover
Hardcover
J. B. Lippincott
1928
First US edition; published in Britain by Harrap as Bohemian Literary and Social Life in Paris
Ebook
Ebook
Public domain — read free on the Internet Archive (scan of the 1928 Lippincott edition)

Reader reviews

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Cover of A Moveable Feast by Ernest Hemingway

A Moveable Feast

Ernest Hemingway

The same cafés remembered from the next table — written thirty-six years earlier, and without the knives.

Read our take
Cover of The Sun Also Rises by Ernest Hemingway

The Sun Also Rises

Ernest Hemingway

Huddleston watched Hemingway hunt the style, then parodied the finished novel within two years — with obvious fondness.

Read our take

Recommended alongside The Good Soldier, Ulysses, Shakespeare and Company, Winesburg, Ohio, Civilization in the United States and The Street I Know.

Paris Salons, Cafés, Studios: frequently asked questions

Who wrote Paris Salons, Cafés, Studios?

Sisley Huddleston, the best-connected English journalist in Paris. It was published in 1928.

What is Paris Salons, Cafés, Studios about?

An eyewitness record of 1920s literary Paris — Paul Fort at the Closerie des Lilas, Sylvia Beach deciding to publish Ulysses, the Ballet Mécanique riot, and a young, freshly famous Hemingway.

When was it written?

In 1928, while the scene it describes was still happening — a contemporary account rather than a memoir written decades later.

Why do we cite it so often?

Half the rooms in the book are on our map. It is a primary source for how those salons, cafés, and studios sounded from a chair inside them.

Who appears in it?

The whole quarter — Sylvia Beach, Ford Madox Ford, Ezra Pound, F. Scott Fitzgerald, the young Hemingway, and the tourists in pearls slumming at the Rotonde.

Places in this book

Places you can enter today appear first, followed by addresses to see from outside and sites that have vanished.

The terrace of La Closerie des Lilas today, its green awning and menu board framed by planters

La Closerie des Lilas

171 Bd du Montparnasse, 75006 Paris

Open — go in

Depicted

Paul Fort's Tuesday court, the old guinguette history, and the Surrealist banquet row — three eras of the café in a few pages.

Visit the place
Le Select at dusk, its name in lights above the awning and the terrace chairs lined up under a warm glow

Le Select

99 Bd du Montparnasse, 75006 Paris

Open — go in

Depicted

Where Huddleston sets his affectionate parody of the Hemingway style — 'Well, let's go over to the Select.' 'Righto!'

Visit the place
La Rotonde at night, red awnings and glowing red neon over a terrace of red-backed chairs on a wet pavement

La Rotonde

105 Bd du Montparnasse, 75006 Paris

Open — go in

Depicted

Italians, Spaniards, and Balkanics with a sprinkling of French — the Rotonde's row in Huddleston's café census of the crossroads.

Visit the place
Le Dôme today, its terrace and awning under the plane trees of the Boulevard du Montparnasse

Le Dôme

108 Bd du Montparnasse, 75014 Paris

Open — go in

Depicted

Scandinavians, British, and Americans — the Dôme's row in the café census, plus the painters in négligé dodging the tourists in pearls.

Visit the place
The Jardin du Luxembourg today, flowerbeds and green chairs facing the palace in late light

Jardin du Luxembourg

Rue de Médicis / Rue de Vaugirard, 75006 Paris

Open — go in

Depicted

Sherwood Anderson's Paris, as Huddleston saw it — a man who could hardly set foot outdoors without entering the great gates of the gardens.

Visit the place
The theater's pale stone-and-concrete front in daylight, gilded reliefs above the marquee and trees along the avenue

Théâtre des Champs-Élysées

15 Av Montaigne, 75008 Paris

Open — go in

Depicted

The Ballet Mécanique riot, reported from the seats — sixteen pianolas, an electric propeller, and Pound in a flowing blue shirt shouting down the hecklers.

Visit the place
The Square de Robiac in soft daylight, pale stone and cobbles curving past the doorway of No. 2

2 Square de Robiac

2 Square de Robiac (off 192 Rue de Grenelle), 75007 Paris

Outside only

Depicted

Joyce's cool quiet study by the Champ de Mars — where Huddleston heard the twelve-hundred-hours defense of Work in Progress.

Visit the place
The successor Shakespeare and Company bookshop today, green shopfront with browsers at the outdoor book bins

Shakespeare and Company (12 Rue de l'Odéon)

12 Rue de l'Odéon, 75006 Paris

Outside only

Depicted

A full chapter on Sylvia Beach's shop — the goldfish bowl, the Whitman manuscripts pinned in the back parlor, and the decision to publish Ulysses.

Visit the place
The bal musette by lamplight, an accordionist playing inside the open door while couples linger on the wet cobbles

Bal Musette

Rue de la Montagne-Sainte-Geneviève (no number given in the novel), 75005 Paris

Permanently closed

Depicted

Ford Madox Ford's parties, exiled from his studio to a bal musette behind the Panthéon — the workers astonished at the invasion of artists and writers.

Visit the place
Chez Émile glowing at night, warm light through the lace curtains onto the wet pavement of the boulevard

Chez Émile

Bd Saint-Michel, by the Bal Bullier (exact number unrecorded), 75005 Paris

Permanently closed

Depicted

The upper room on the Boul' Mich' where Ford, Pierre Loving, Pound, and Huddleston played with ideas for hours — a room only this memoir remembers.

Visit the place
The carved entrance in warm afternoon light, the avenue's plane trees reflected along the stone

The Salon on the Avenue Charles Floquet

Av Charles Floquet (exact number unrecorded), 75007 Paris

Outside only

Depicted

Mrs. Christian Gross's drawing room by the Champ de Mars, where Pound the composer debuted his Villon songs to an invited and astonished audience.

Visit the place
The Bal Bullier façade in golden evening light, painted allegorical panels between brick piers and gilded domes above the arch

Bal Bullier

33 Av de l'Observatoire (site — today 39 Av Georges Bernanos), 75005 Paris

Outside only

Depicted

The mock-oriental dance hall opposite the Closerie — the landmark by which the quarter navigated, and the lilac garden that named the café.

Visit the place