
A Moveable Feast
The same cafés remembered from the next table — written thirty-six years earlier, and without the knives.
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A Times correspondent's eyewitness tour of the salons and café tables of 1920s Paris — Joyce, Pound, Sylvia Beach, and the young Hemingway, sketched from the next chair.
Huddleston was the best-connected English journalist in Paris, and in 1928 he wrote it all down while it was still happening: Paul Fort holding court at the Closerie des Lilas, Sylvia Beach deciding to publish Ulysses, Pound turning composer, the Ballet Mécanique riot, the tourists in pearls slumming at the Rotonde — and a young Hemingway, freshly famous, affectionately parodied in his own style. Half the rooms in this book are on our map; this is what they sounded like from a chair inside.
Huddleston had the best seat in Paris and knew it. The Times of London sent him to cover the 1919 Peace Conference; he stayed to cover everything else, and by the mid-twenties the portly Englishman presiding over the Anglo-American press lunches knew both literary Parises — the French one of Paul Fort and the academies, and the foreign one assembling at the Dôme and the rue de l'Odéon — better than anyone writing in English.
In 1928 he did the sensible, priceless thing: he wrote it all down while it was still happening. Salon by salon, café by café, studio by studio, the book tours the era mid-performance — Sylvia Beach deciding to publish Ulysses, Pound turning composer, the riots at modernist premieres, and a newly famous young Hemingway, whose hunt for a simple style Huddleston had watched at the press lunches and whose finished manner he affectionately parodies in these pages.
Lippincott published it in America in 1928; Britain got it from Harrap as Bohemian Literary and Social Life in Paris. It sold as journalism and survives as testimony: no hindsight, no legend-polishing, no idea how any of it would end. The book is now in the public domain — free to read — and half its rooms are on our map, which makes it something like our founding document, written from the next chair.
A guided tour of literary and artistic Paris in the twenties, written by the Times correspondent who had a chair in every room. Huddleston organizes it the way the city organized itself: by salon, café, and studio — the French literary world of Paul Fort and the academies on one side, the Anglo-American colony of Montparnasse on the other, and the traffic between them that most memoirs never mention. Sylvia Beach and the publishing of Ulysses, Pound's operatic experiments, the riots that greeted the new music and painting, the tourist invasion of the Rotonde — all reported as news, because it still was.
The pleasure is the eyewitness present tense: nobody in these pages knows how the story ends, least of all the affectionately parodied young Hemingway. Chapters stand alone, so the book rewards browsing — start with a room you know from our map and read outward. It is the era's best single piece of testimony from the next chair, and it is in the public domain: the whole thing can be read free online.
The evenings of the Closerie des Lilas come back to me vividly. The Prince of Poets sat in state on an upholstered bench of the café; while around him was his court of writers … To the drinking of coffee and of bocks, poetry was recited, analysed, and appraised.
Once upon a time the Closerie des Lilas at the corner of the Boulevard du Montparnasse was a guinguette — a country-inn on the route to Fontainebleau. Baudelaire frequented it.
My attention was first called to them by a tremendous row one evening at the Closerie des Lilas. Chairs hurtled through the air, crockery crashed through the window.
Huddleston isn't remembering an era forty years later — he's reporting it in 1928, with Joyce still reading aloud, Beach still at the shop, and the Surrealists still throwing chairs at the Closerie.
Paul Fort, Maeterlinck, and the French literary world share these pages with the Anglo-Americans — the half of café life the expatriate memoirs mostly walked past.
The Closerie, the Rotonde, the Dôme, the Select, Shakespeare and Company — chapter by chapter, the very rooms on our map, and the book is public domain.
1919
The Times of London sends Huddleston to cover the Peace Conference; he stays, and by the mid-twenties presides over the Anglo-American press lunches, knowing both literary Parises better than anyone writing in English.
1928
He writes it down while it is still happening: Lippincott publishes it in America, Harrap in Britain as Bohemian Literary and Social Life in Paris.

The same cafés remembered from the next table — written thirty-six years earlier, and without the knives.
Read our take
Huddleston watched Hemingway hunt the style, then parodied the finished novel within two years — with obvious fondness.
Read our takeSisley Huddleston, the best-connected English journalist in Paris. It was published in 1928.
An eyewitness record of 1920s literary Paris — Paul Fort at the Closerie des Lilas, Sylvia Beach deciding to publish Ulysses, the Ballet Mécanique riot, and a young, freshly famous Hemingway.
In 1928, while the scene it describes was still happening — a contemporary account rather than a memoir written decades later.
Half the rooms in the book are on our map. It is a primary source for how those salons, cafés, and studios sounded from a chair inside them.
The whole quarter — Sylvia Beach, Ford Madox Ford, Ezra Pound, F. Scott Fitzgerald, the young Hemingway, and the tourists in pearls slumming at the Rotonde.

Depicted
Paul Fort's Tuesday court, the old guinguette history, and the Surrealist banquet row — three eras of the café in a few pages.
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Depicted
Where Huddleston sets his affectionate parody of the Hemingway style — 'Well, let's go over to the Select.' 'Righto!'
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Italians, Spaniards, and Balkanics with a sprinkling of French — the Rotonde's row in Huddleston's café census of the crossroads.
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Scandinavians, British, and Americans — the Dôme's row in the café census, plus the painters in négligé dodging the tourists in pearls.
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Sherwood Anderson's Paris, as Huddleston saw it — a man who could hardly set foot outdoors without entering the great gates of the gardens.
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The Ballet Mécanique riot, reported from the seats — sixteen pianolas, an electric propeller, and Pound in a flowing blue shirt shouting down the hecklers.
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Joyce's cool quiet study by the Champ de Mars — where Huddleston heard the twelve-hundred-hours defense of Work in Progress.
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A full chapter on Sylvia Beach's shop — the goldfish bowl, the Whitman manuscripts pinned in the back parlor, and the decision to publish Ulysses.
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Ford Madox Ford's parties, exiled from his studio to a bal musette behind the Panthéon — the workers astonished at the invasion of artists and writers.
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The upper room on the Boul' Mich' where Ford, Pierre Loving, Pound, and Huddleston played with ideas for hours — a room only this memoir remembers.
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Mrs. Christian Gross's drawing room by the Champ de Mars, where Pound the composer debuted his Villon songs to an invited and astonished audience.
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Depicted
The mock-oriental dance hall opposite the Closerie — the landmark by which the quarter navigated, and the lilac garden that named the café.
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