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Cover of The Sun Also Rises by Ernest Hemingway

The Sun Also Rises

by Ernest Hemingway

Paris cafés, Pamplona bulls, and a crowd of the beautifully damaged — the novel that named a generation.

Published
1926
Pages
251
Setting
Paris, Spain
Shelf rating
4.8

About Ernest Hemingway

Illustrated portrait of Ernest Hemingway
Ernest Hemingway

31 books on our shelvesWhere to start

The story, briefly

Spoiler-free

Jake Barnes, an American newspaperman carrying an unspeakable war wound, drifts through expatriate Paris in the orbit of Lady Brett Ashley — married twice, waiting on a divorce, magnetic, and impossible for him to have. When the crowd decamps to Pamplona for the fiesta, the drinking, the bullfights, and the jealousies come to a head. Nothing is stated; everything is felt. It remains the essential novel of the Lost Generation, written by the man Gertrude Stein aimed the phrase at.

The story, in more detail

The novel was practically reported. In July 1925 Hemingway took his crowd — Lady Duff Twysden, Harold Loeb, Pat Guthrie, his boyhood friend Bill Smith, the humorist Donald Ogden Stewart — to the fiesta at Pamplona, watched the week collapse into jealousies over Duff, and started writing days later, on his twenty-sixth birthday, in Valencia. The first draft took about eight weeks, finished in Paris that September: the fastest sustained writing of his life, done while the wounds were still open.

The revision is one of the era's great craft stories. Fitzgerald read the opening — pages of chatty biography about Brett and Mike — and told him to cut it; Hemingway lopped the front of the book off in proof, so the novel now begins with Robert Cohn and trusts the reader with everything else. He set two epigraphs facing each other, Gertrude Stein's 'you are all a lost generation' against the wheel of Ecclesiastes, and let the title come from the second. Britain got it as Fiesta; Scribner published it in October 1926.

It made him famous and cost him nearly every friendship in it. Montparnasse read it as a directory — the quarter played spot-the-original for months — Duff and Loeb carried the portraits for the rest of their lives, and Loeb spent thirty years drafting his answer. Meanwhile the spare, repeating sentences remade American prose, and a generation of young women began talking like Brett. Few novels have ever been simultaneously such good gossip and such permanent literature.

The full plot

What happens, beginning to end — the ending included. Open when you're ready.

Hemingway splits the novel into three parts, and the first belongs to Paris. Jake Barnes, an American newspaperman carrying a war wound that has made physical love impossible, drifts through the expatriate café world alongside Robert Cohn — a restless novelist who wants his life changed by South America, or by anything. Jake picks up a poule named Georgette out of loneliness and runs into Lady Brett Ashley at a dance club; in a taxi afterward the two of them turn over, one more time, the fact at the book's center: they love each other and it cannot work. Brett collects a devoted Greek count, deflects Cohn's sudden infatuation, and leaves town — to San Sebastián, it later emerges, with Cohn, a weekend that means nothing to her and everything to him. Cohn meanwhile disposes of Frances, the companion who managed three years of his life, absorbing her farewell evisceration in silence.

The second part moves to Spain. Jake and his friend Bill Gorton fish five perfect days at Burguete — the novel's one interval of peace — then rejoin the crowd in Pamplona for the fiesta: Brett, her bankrupt fiancé Mike Campbell, and Cohn, who follows Brett like a wronged creditor. As the fiesta detonates around them, the group turns on Cohn — Mike most viciously — while Jake introduces Brett to Pedro Romero, the nineteen-year-old matador who is everything the crowd is not. Brett, unable to stop herself, asks Jake to bring them together, and he does it, knowingly trading away the respect of the hotelier Montoya and the aficionados' world he treasures. Cohn, told where Brett has gone, knocks Jake and Mike down with his Princeton boxing and then beats Romero terribly — but cannot make the boy stay down or shake his hand, and leaves Pamplona weeping and finished with them all.

The next afternoon is the novel's climax: Romero, his face ruined, fights anyway and is magnificent — he kills the bull that had earlier gored a man to death in the morning's running, cuts the ear, and gives it to Brett. The aging Belmonte, jeered by a crowd that wanted his legend rather than his diminished self, watches the era pass to the boy. When the fiesta ends, the crowd scatters: Bill back to Paris, Mike broke to Saint-Jean-de-Luz, and Brett gone to Madrid with Romero. Jake, alone, retreats to San Sebastián to swim and recover — until Brett's telegram arrives.

How it ends — spoilers aheadThe final movement, ending included. Open when you're ready.

Jake finds Brett alone in a cheap Madrid hotel. She has just let Pedro Romero go — the young matador wanted to marry her, and she sent him away instead, refusing his money and refusing, as she tells Jake, to be the kind of woman who ruins a nineteen-year-old. That small decency is her consolation: doing the right thing, she tells Jake, is sort of what people like them have instead of God. The two of them lunch at Botín's, drink too much rioja alta, and take a last taxi ride through Madrid. Pressed together as the cab slows, Brett says they could have had such a damned good time together. The novel ends on Jake's reply — 'Isn't it pretty to think so?' — the gentlest, most devastating no in American literature.

Guides to this book

Take it with you.

Quotes from The Sun Also Rises

Quoted verbatim from the text, each line verified against its source.

“How did you go bankrupt?” Bill asked. “Two ways,” Mike said. “Gradually and then suddenly.”
Mike Campbell (dialogue) · Ernest Hemingway, The Sun Also Rises (1926), Book Two, Chapter 13
It is awfully easy to be hard-boiled about everything in the daytime, but at night it is another thing.
Jake (narration) · Ernest Hemingway, The Sun Also Rises (1926), Book One, Chapter 4
Listen, Robert, going to another country doesn’t make any difference. I’ve tried all that. You can’t get away from yourself by moving from one place to another. There’s nothing to that.
Jake Barnes (dialogue) · Ernest Hemingway, The Sun Also Rises (1926), Book One, Chapter 2

All 86 The Sun Also Rises quotes →

Why we recommend it

  1. The iceberg, demonstrated

    Jake's wound, the war, the love story's impossibility — the novel's biggest facts are never stated directly, and land harder for it. This is the style that remade the American sentence.

  2. It's a roman à clef you can still hear gossiping

    Nearly everyone in it was a real person at real cafés — the 1925 Pamplona trip happened, feuds included. Few novels let you eavesdrop on an era this directly.

  3. The saddest funny book of its decade

    The dialogue sparkles, the drinking is comic, and underneath it all runs the flat despair of people who survived the war without surviving it. 'Isn't it pretty to think so?' still lands like a verdict.

What this book explores

The people in its pages

Fiction — but barely. Nearly everyone here was drawn from a real person at a real café, and one arrives under his own name. Each face opens a spoiler-free character guide that names the original; endings and aftermath stay behind a warning.

  • Illustrated portrait of Jake Barnes

    Jake Barnes

    The narrator — an American newspaperman in Paris, carrying a war wound the book never names, in love with the one woman it makes impossible.

  • Illustrated portrait of Lady Brett Ashley

    Lady Brett Ashley

    Married twice, waiting on a divorce, magnetic to every man in the book — the center of gravity the whole novel orbits.

  • Illustrated portrait of Robert Cohn

    Robert Cohn

    Once middleweight boxing champion of Princeton — the novel's opening line, and the outsider the whole crowd sharpens itself on.

  • Illustrated portrait of Bill Gorton

    Bill Gorton

    Jake's fishing companion and the book's comic engine — arriving from New York with stuffed dogs on his mind and 'never be daunted' as doctrine.

  • Illustrated portrait of Mike Campbell

    Mike Campbell

    Brett's fiancé — Scottish, charming, bankrupt two ways: gradually and then suddenly.

  • Illustrated portrait of Pedro Romero

    Pedro Romero

    Nineteen, from Ronda, and the real thing — the young matador the book offers as the one unruined man in it.

  • Illustrated portrait of Montoya

    Montoya

    Keeper of the Pamplona hotel where the matadors stay — and of aficion itself, the passion he ranks above money, manners, and guests.

  • Illustrated portrait of Count Mippipopolous

    Count Mippipopolous

    Brett's champagne-buying Greek count — seven wars, four revolutions, and the settled secret of getting to know the values.

  • Illustrated portrait of Frances Clyne

    Frances Clyne

    Cohn's companion of three years — and author of the book's most scalding monologue when he decides to trade her in for his new life.

  • Illustrated portrait of Georgette Hobin

    Georgette Hobin

    The poule Jake picks up on the Boulevard and squires to dinner — introduced to literary Paris, as a joke, under a famous singer's name.

  • Illustrated portrait of Harvey Stone

    Harvey Stone

    Found at the Select, unshaven and broke, days past his last meal — the expatriate literary life with the varnish burned off.

  • Illustrated portrait of Wilson-Harris

    Wilson-Harris

    The Englishman at the Burguete inn — a war veteran who fishes with Jake and Bill and can barely say what the five days meant to him.

  • Illustrated portrait of Belmonte

    Belmonte

    The one real name in the book: Juan Belmonte, greatest matador of his age, caught mid-comeback on the afternoon the novel hands to a boy of nineteen.

Real people in this book

The real people this book portrays, dedicates itself to, or draws from — every connection carries its source.

Illustrated portrait of Bill Smith

Bill Smith

  • Muse

Depicts

Bill Gorton is a composite, and Smith is the fishing half — Hemingway's boyhood friend from the Michigan summers, present at the 1925 fiesta.

Carlos Baker, Ernest Hemingway: A Life Story (1969)

The real history

The fiesta was real: Hemingway's July 1925 Pamplona trip, with the real Lady Duff Twysden in tow, supplied the novel almost scene for scene — and ended most of the friendships in it.

Read the full story in the journal

From the Journal

Stories from the atlas that shelve this book.

Essays

“You Are All a Lost Generation”

The most famous label in modern literature started as a complaint about a slow car repair. What 'lost' actually meant — and why the writers it named never accepted it.

Adriana Pope · · 7 min read

Real history

Scott and Ernest: A Friendship in Five Rounds

Fitzgerald vouched for Hemingway before he'd met him and edited him better than he edited himself. Hemingway outlived him and wrote the eulogy crooked. The friendship, round by round.

Adriana Pope · · 9 min read

New and noteworthy

What to Read This Summer

Summer reading is a matching problem, not a ranking problem. Our seasonal guide pairs the moderns to the July you're actually having.

Adriana Pope · · 5 min read

Bring it to book club

  • Jake calls himself a bad Catholic and a good aficionado. What does the novel let him believe in, and does it hold?
  • Is Brett Ashley a free woman, a casualty of the war, or the novel's most honest character? Defend one reading.
  • The famous last line — 'Isn't it pretty to think so?' — answers which illusion, exactly?

A complete discussion guide is on our editorial calendar. Join the letter to hear when it ships.

In images

Archival photographs and objects connected to this book, rights verified.

The July 1925 fiesta table at Pamplona — Hemingway, Loeb, Duff Twysden, Hadley, Stewart, and Guthrie — photographed months before the novel renamed them all.1925 · Ernest Hemingway Photograph Collection, JFK Presidential Library · Public domain

Timeline

  1. 1923

    Hemingway and Hadley Richardson see the Festival of San Fermín at Pamplona for the first time. His account of it, 'Pamplona in July,' runs in the Toronto Star Weekly that October.

    Ernest Hemingway and Hadley Richardson at the Festival of San Fermín, which they saw for the first time in July 1923. The encierro runs behind them. Hemingway's account of that week, 'Pamplona in July,' ran in the Toronto Star Weekly that October. (The Paris Atlas)
  2. 1924

    They return to the fiesta and travel on through the Basque country, staying at Burguete, whose trout streams become the novel's fishing chapters.

    Fishing the trout streams around Burguete, in the Basque country, where the Hemingways stayed after the 1924 fiesta. The water and the village became the novel's fishing chapters, the one stretch of the book that costs Jake Barnes nothing. (The Paris Atlas)
  3. 1925

    In July he brings a larger party to Pamplona: Lady Duff Twysden, Harold Loeb, Pat Guthrie, his boyhood friend Bill Smith, and the humorist Donald Ogden Stewart. The week collapses into jealousies over Duff, and Hemingway challenges Loeb to a fight; they exchange apologies the next day instead.

    The party at the fiesta in July 1925 — Hemingway, Lady Duff Twysden, and the men around her. The week's jealousies became the plot of the novel he began days later. (The Paris Atlas)
  4. 1925

    He begins writing in Valencia on his twenty-sixth birthday, 21 July, with several of the party under their real names. The first draft takes about eight weeks, finished in Paris that September.

    Valencia, 21 July 1925 — his twenty-sixth birthday, and the day he began the book. The first draft took about eight weeks and was finished in Paris that September, with several of the Pamplona party still under their real names. (The Paris Atlas)
  5. 1925

    In November he writes The Torrents of Spring, a parody of Sherwood Anderson, one of Boni & Liveright's own authors. The house rejects it at the end of December, which breaks his contract and frees him to take the novel to Scribner.

  6. 1925–1926

    He revises through the winter at Schruns, in Austria, and into the spring in Paris, finishing in April.

    Schruns, in the Austrian Vorarlberg, where he revised through the winter of 1925–26. The work carried on into the spring in Paris and was finished in April. (The Paris Atlas)
  7. 1926

    F. Scott Fitzgerald reads the book and urges him to cut its long explanatory opening. Hemingway removes two chapters of character biography in proof, so the novel now begins with Robert Cohn. The discarded pages survive and are printed in scholarly editions.

    F. Scott Fitzgerald reading the typescript in 1926 and pressing Hemingway to cut the long explanatory opening. Hemingway removed two chapters of character biography and started the book in the middle of things instead. (The Paris Atlas)
  8. 1926

    The working title Fiesta gives way to The Sun Also Rises, taken from the passage in Ecclesiastes he sets facing Gertrude Stein's 'you are all a lost generation.'

  9. 1926

    He corrects the proofs in Paris in August, as his marriage breaks up over his relationship with Pauline Pfeiffer. The book is dedicated to Hadley and their son John, and he gave Hadley its royalties in the separation.

    Correcting the proofs in Paris in August 1926, as his marriage broke up over his relationship with Pauline Pfeiffer. The book was dedicated to Hadley Richardson and their son. (The Paris Atlas)
  10. 1926

    Scribner publishes on 22 October. It makes Hemingway famous at twenty-seven.

    Scribner published on 22 October 1926, in a first printing of 5,090 copies. The book made Hemingway famous at twenty-seven, and the fiesta it described has been drawing readers to Pamplona ever since. (The Paris Atlas)
  11. 1926–1927

    Montparnasse reads it as a directory, playing spot-the-original for months. Duff Twysden and Harold Loeb carried the portraits for the rest of their lives, and Loeb published his own account of the fiesta in 1959.

  12. 1927

    Jonathan Cape publishes the first British edition in May, under Hemingway's discarded working title, Fiesta. It is still sold under both titles.

  13. 1957

    Henry King directs the first film adaptation, with Tyrone Power as Jake, Ava Gardner as Brett, Mel Ferrer as Cohn, and Errol Flynn as Mike Campbell. It opens in August.

  14. 2020

    Library of America publishes a corrected text established from Hemingway's manuscripts and typescripts, with letters and journalism from the years of composition.

  15. 2022

    The 1926 American text enters the public domain in the United States.

Book editions

Hardcover
Hardcover
Charles Scribner's Sons
1926
First American edition, published 22 October in a first printing of 5,090 copies at two dollars.
Hardcover
Hardcover
Jonathan Cape
1927
First British edition, published in May as Fiesta and without the two epigraphs.
Paperback edition cover
Paperback
Scribner
1995
ISBN-13
9780684800714
The Scribner Paperback Fiction trade edition.
Hardcover edition cover
Hardcover
Scribner
1996
ISBN-13
9780684830513
Scribner Classics edition, issued for the house's 150th year.
Ebook edition cover
Ebook
Scribner
2002
ISBN-13
9780743237338
Paperback edition cover
Paperback
Scribner
2006
ISBN-13
9780743297332
The Authorized Edition, with an introduction by Colm Tóibín.
Audiobook edition cover
Audiobook
Simon & Schuster Audio
2006
ISBN-13
9780743563437
Unabridged, read by William Hurt, with Colm Tóibín's introduction.
Hardcover edition cover
Hardcover
Scribner
2014
ISBN-13
9781476739953
The Hemingway Library Edition: early drafts, deleted passages, the titles he considered, and introductions by Patrick and Seán Hemingway.
Paperback edition cover
Paperback
Scribner
2016
ISBN-13
9781501121968
The Hemingway Library Edition in paperback.
Paperback edition cover
Paperback
Penguin Classics
2022
ISBN-13
9780143136774
Graphic Deluxe Edition, with an introduction by Amor Towles and cover art by R. Kikuo Johnson.
Hardcover edition cover
Hardcover
Penguin Classics
2022
ISBN-13
9780143136866
Penguin Vitae edition, with an introduction by Amor Towles.
Hardcover edition cover
Hardcover
Everyman's Library
2022
ISBN-13
9780593321287
Clothbound, with an introduction by Nicholas Gaskill.
Hardcover edition cover
Hardcover
Clydesdale Press
2022
ISBN-13
9781949846454
Deluxe Illustrated Edition, with drawings by Tim Foley and a foreword by Robert Wheeler.
Paperback edition cover
Paperback
Vintage Classics
2022
ISBN-13
9780593466346
With an introduction by Mary V. Dearborn.
Paperback edition cover
Paperback
Signet
2022
ISBN-13
9780593201138
Mass-market edition, with an introduction by Maria Hinojosa.
Paperback edition cover
Paperback
Library of America
2022
ISBN-13
9781598537154
The corrected text, edited by Robert W. Trogdon from the manuscripts and typescripts: punctuation and wording altered by earlier editors are restored, with a chronology, journalism, and letters from the years of composition.
Paperback edition cover
Paperback
Penguin Classics
2026
ISBN-13
9780143139362
Centennial Edition, introduced by Amor Towles and edited by Ross K. Tangedal, printing five related stories from In Our Time and Men Without Women alongside the novel.

Reader reviews

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The memoir of the same years — the nonfiction shadow of this novel, written forty years later with the knives out.

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Tropic of Cancer

Henry Miller

Expatriate Paris again, five years and one economic collapse later — no fiesta money left, and no restraint either.

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Recommended alongside The Old Man and the Sea, In Our Time, Hugh Selwyn Mauberley, To Have and Have Not, For Whom the Bell Tolls, The Garden of Eden, Paris Salons, Cafés, Studios, The Good Soldier, The Great Gatsby, This Side of Paradise, Tender Is the Night, Civilization in the United States, The Street I Know, Three Stories and Ten Poems, The Torrents of Spring, Men Without Women, Death in the Afternoon, Ernest Hemingway: Selected Letters 1917–1961, The Dangerous Summer, Giovanni's Room and Some Do Not….

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The Sun Also Rises: frequently asked questions

Who wrote The Sun Also Rises?

Ernest Hemingway. It was his first novel, published in 1926, and the book that made his reputation.

What is The Sun Also Rises about?

An American newspaperman, Jake Barnes, and a circle of expatriates drift through 1920s Paris and a bullfighting fiesta at Pamplona, in the orbit of the magnetic Lady Brett Ashley. It remains the essential novel of the Lost Generation.

Why is The Sun Also Rises famous?

It fixed the Lost Generation in the public imagination and showed Hemingway's stripped-down style at full strength — nothing is stated outright, and everything is felt.

Is The Sun Also Rises based on real events?

Closely. Hemingway drew on a July 1925 trip to the Pamplona fiesta with friends whose real jealousies over Lady Duff Twysden became the novel's plot; he started writing days later.

What is the "lost generation" epigraph?

Hemingway opened the book with Gertrude Stein's remark, "You are all a lost generation," set against a passage from Ecclesiastes. The line gave the era its name.

Places in this book

Places you can enter today appear first, followed by addresses to see from outside and sites that have vanished.

The Place de la Contrescarpe in summer light, the fountain playing at the center and café terraces ringing the cobbles

Place de la Contrescarpe

Pl. de la Contrescarpe, 75005 Paris

Open — go in

In the story

The small square at the top of the rue Mouffetard, a minute from Hemingway's first flat — now one of the quarter's prettiest corners. The novel visits it after dark.

Visit the place
Le Select at dusk, its name in lights above the awning and the terrace chairs lined up under a warm glow

Le Select

99 Bd du Montparnasse, 75006 Paris

Open — go in

In the story

Open when everywhere else has closed — the last stop of every Montparnasse evening, and the long night-walk across Paris ends at its lights.

Visit the place
La Rotonde at night, red awnings and glowing red neon over a terrace of red-backed chairs on a wet pavement

La Rotonde

105 Bd du Montparnasse, 75006 Paris

Open — go in

Mentioned

Target of the novel's driest joke: name any café in Montparnasse, and the taxi from the Right Bank still delivers you to the Rotonde.

Visit the place
Le Dôme today, its terrace and awning under the plane trees of the Boulevard du Montparnasse

Le Dôme

108 Bd du Montparnasse, 75014 Paris

Open — go in

Mentioned

The other corner of Jake's nightly geography — he predicts the taxi drivers will make it the Rotonde's successor within ten years.

Visit the place
The terrace of La Closerie des Lilas today, its green awning and menu board framed by planters

La Closerie des Lilas

171 Bd du Montparnasse, 75006 Paris

Open — go in

In the story · Written here

Jake walks home past Marshal Ney's statue outside the Lilas — and it was at these tables that Hemingway drafted most of the novel in the autumn of 1925.

Visit the place
The Hôtel de Crillon at evening, its arched ground floor glowing gold beneath the balustraded stone front

Hôtel de Crillon

10 Pl. de la Concorde, 75008 Paris

Open — go in

In the story

The Right Bank at its grandest: Jake writes letters on the house stationery, then heads down to the bar for a Jack Rose cocktail with George the barman.

Visit the place
The Seine at dusk, lamps glowing along the tree-lined quai and Notre-Dame lit above the water downstream

Notre-Dame de Paris

6 Parvis Notre-Dame — Pl. Jean-Paul II, 75004 Paris

Open — go in

Depicted

Seen from the wooden footbridge off the Quai de Béthune, dark against the night sky — the quiet center of the novel's Paris.

Visit the place
The Orsay building at sunset from across the Seine, golden light on the stone façade and the river in the foreground

Gare d'Orsay

1 Rue de la Légion d'Honneur (Esplanade Valéry-Giscard-d'Estaing), 75007 Paris

Open — go in

In the story

The morning train south leaves from here — Bill and Jake ride it to the Spanish border, and the novel leaves Paris behind. The station is now the Musée d'Orsay.

Visit the place
The half-timbered village inn at Auritz/Burguete in color, shutters open over the quiet street

Hostal Burguete

Calle San Nicolás 71, 31640 Auritz / Burguete

Open — go in

In the story

Chapters XI and XII lodge here — the freezing room, the hot rum punch, the trout suppers, and the packed lunches for the walk out to the fishing. The novel's one stretch of peace.

Visit the place
Restaurante Botín's wooden storefront glowing warm at dusk, wine in the windows and the tiled Botín sign above

Restaurante Botín

Calle de Cuchilleros, 17, 28005 Madrid

Open — go in

In the story

The last meal: roast young suckling pig and rioja alta in the upstairs room, before the final taxi ride and the book's closing line.

Visit the place
The Café Iruña's bar room in color, the gilt columns and mirrored walls warm under the chandeliers above the checkerboard marble floor

Café Iruña

Plaza del Castillo, 44, 31001 Pamplona / Iruña

Open — go in

In the story

Named twelve times across chapters X, XIII and XV–XVII — the group's base in Pamplona, from the walk under the arcade on arrival to the meetings arranged there at noon during the fiesta.

Visit the place
The rue Soufflot at first light, the Panthéon's dome and colonnade lit gold above the empty street

Rue Soufflot

Rue Soufflot, 75005 Paris

Open — go in

In the story

Chapter V. Jake Barnes walks down the boulevard for coffee and a brioche before work — the only morning the novel shows him at his job. Hemingway names the street and not the café, and the café has never been identified.

Visit the place
The Café Napolitain in soft evening light, empty chairs in ranks beneath the awning and the Haussmann façade above

Café Napolitain

1 Bd des Capucines (site), 75002 Paris

Permanently closed

In the story

The book opens here — an apéritif on the Right Bank terrace, watching the evening crowd, the electric signs, and the last horse-cabs go by.

Visit the place
The bal musette by lamplight, an accordionist playing inside the open door while couples linger on the wet cobbles

Bal Musette

Rue de la Montagne-Sainte-Geneviève (no number given in the novel), 75005 Paris

Permanently closed

In the story

A working-class accordion dance hall in the Latin Quarter — the neighborhood danced there most nights, and the expatriate crowd borrowed it on Mondays.

Visit the place
Zelli's at night in amber light, letters glowing over the door while guests arrive across the wet cobbles

Zelli's

16 bis Rue Fontaine (now Rue Pierre-Fontaine), 75009 Paris

Outside only

In the story

Crowded, smoky, and loud — the Montmartre boîte where the Paris nights end, the music hitting you at the door.

Visit the place
The riverside restaurant at dusk, warm light spilling from its windows onto the wet quai beside the Seine

Madame Lecomte's

33 Quai d'Anjou, 75004 Paris

Outside only

In the story

Bill and Jake's dinner on the far side of the Île Saint-Louis — wonderful food, and a forty-five-minute wait since the American Women's Club listed it.

Visit the place

The food in its pages

The meals as the book serves them — every dish quoted verbatim from the text.

Roast chicken on a platter ringed with herbs, with mashed potatoes, green beans, a salad, a wedge of cheese and a slice of apple pie — dinner at Madame Lecomte's on the Île Saint-Louis.

Chapter VIII — dinner with Bill on the Île Saint-Louis

Roast chicken at Madame Lecomte's

We had a good meal, a roast chicken, new green beans, mashed potatoes, a salad, and some apple-pie and cheese.

Worth the forty-five-minute wait — an American women's club had just listed the place as 'untouched by Americans.'

Visit Madame Lecomte's
A cup of black coffee and a tall fluted brioche on stoneware plates — Jake Barnes's breakfast on the rue Soufflot, beside the Luxembourg gardens.

Chapter V — Jake's breakfast, alone

Coffee and a brioche on the rue Soufflot

In the morning I walked down the Boulevard to the rue Soufflot for coffee and brioche. It was a fine morning. The horse-chestnut trees in the Luxembourg gardens were in bloom.

The book's quietest meal: one man, one cup, the papers, and the chestnuts in bloom. Hemingway names the street and not the café, and the café has never been identified.

Visit Rue Soufflot
Two string-tied paper parcels, a bottle and glass of white Chablis and a cut sandwich on a train compartment table, French farmland running past the window.

Chapter IX — the train from Paris to Bayonne

Sandwiches and Chablis on the train south

We ate the sandwiches and drank the Chablis and watched the country out of the window. The grain was just beginning to ripen and the fields were full of poppies. The pastureland was green, and there were fine trees, and sometimes big rivers and chateaux off in the trees.

Seven carloads of American pilgrims returning from Rome had the dining car booked until half past three, so a waiter brought lunch to the compartment instead.

A wine bottle lying in the shallows of a stream beside a plate of roast chicken and halved hard-boiled eggs, sliced country bread and paper lunch parcels on the riverbank in the valley of the Rio de la Fabrica.

Chapter XII — the fishing picnic, wine chilled in the stream

The lunch by the Rio de la Fabrica

The wine was icy cold and tasted faintly rusty. “That’s not such filthy wine,” Bill said. “The cold helps it,” I said. We unwrapped the little parcels of lunch. “Chicken.” “There’s hard-boiled eggs.” “Find any salt?” “First the egg,” said Bill. “Then the chicken. Even Bryan could see that.”

The bottles were wedged against roots in the spring at dawn — the era's best-documented wine cooler.

A bowl of vegetable soup, an iron pot of stew, a platter of fried trout with lemon and a bowl of wild strawberries at the inn at Burguete in the Navarrese Pyrenees.

Chapter XI — the cold first night in the mountains

Supper at the Burguete inn

The girl brought in a big bowl of hot vegetable soup and the wine. We had fried trout afterward and some sort of a stew and a big bowl full of wild strawberries.

'We did not lose money on the wine,' the next line reports — the room was freezing and the bottles kept coming.

Visit Hostal Burguete
Three whole speckled trout laid out on a bed of green ferns, packed in layers the way Jake Barnes packs his catch above the dam for the walk back to Burguete.

Chapter XII — provisioning as art

The trout packed in ferns

I took the trout ashore, washed them in the cold, smoothly heavy water above the dam, and then picked some ferns and packed them all in the bag, three trout on a layer of ferns, then another layer of ferns, then three more trout, and then covered them with ferns.

Not a meal — the making of one. The catch, washed and packed in layers of ferns for the walk home — the book gives the whole process its own paragraph.

A plate of whole cooked shrimps scattered with parsley beside three tall glasses of beer, the café lunch during the fiesta of San Fermín in Pamplona.

Chapter XVIII — noon at the Café Iruña, Pamplona at full boil

Shrimps and beer at the fiesta

At noon we were all at the café. It was crowded. We were eating shrimps and drinking beer. The town was crowded. Every street was full.

The line does not name the café, but chapter XVII ends with Bill saying they will meet at noon at the Iruña and chapter XVIII opens at that noon. Pages later Mike tips the table and the dish of shrimps goes over in a crash.

Visit Café Iruña
A whole roast suckling pig on an oval platter with a bottle and two glasses of rioja alta — the last lunch, at Botín's in Madrid.

Chapter XIX — the last meal, with Brett in Madrid

Roast suckling pig at Botín's

We lunched up-stairs at Botin’s. It is one of the best restaurants in the world. We had roast young suckling pig and drank rioja alta. Brett did not eat much. She never ate much. I ate a very big meal and drank three bottles of rioja alta.

Botín's still serves the suckling pig today — Guinness calls it the world's oldest restaurant, and this passage hangs in its stairwell.

Visit Restaurante Botín