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Street · Latin Quarter, between the Luxembourg and the Panthéon · 5e arrondissement

Rue Soufflot

The buildingStill standing
Getting inWalk straight in
What's there nowStill the same

The street between the Luxembourg gardens and the Panthéon where the narrator of Ernest Hemingway's The Sun Also Rises stops for coffee and a brioche, on the one morning the novel shows him going to work. He never names the café.

Address
Rue Soufflot, 75005 Paris
IllustrationThe rue Soufflot at first light, the Panthéon's dome and colonnade lit gold above the empty street

The same view at first light, before the cafés open.

Editorial illustration

The place, briefly

Rue Soufflot runs uphill from the Boulevard Saint-Michel to the Place du Panthéon, with the Jardin du Luxembourg at its lower end. It was laid out to give the Panthéon a clear approach, reached the rue Saint-Jacques around 1760, and was extended down to the boulevard in the second half of the nineteenth century. Since 1807 it has carried the name of Jacques-Germain Soufflot, who designed the building it points at.

In chapter V of Ernest Hemingway's 1926 novel The Sun Also Rises, the narrator Jake Barnes walks down the boulevard to the rue Soufflot for coffee and a brioche. The horse-chestnuts in the Luxembourg gardens are in bloom. He reads the papers with the coffee and smokes a cigarette. The flower-women come up from the market to set out the day's stock, and students pass on their way up to the law school or down to the Sorbonne.

This is the only morning in the novel that shows him working. He finishes the coffee, takes an S bus down to the Madeleine, walks along the Boulevard des Capucines to the Opéra and up to his office, and puts in a good morning at the typewriter. Jake Barnes is a newspaperman. The book says so early and demonstrates it here.

Hemingway does not name the café. He gives the street, the order and the time of day, and nothing else. Cafés trade on the rue Soufflot now, some of them using the Soufflot name, but none has demonstrated a link to the one in the book.

The order itself is coffee and one brioche. A brioche is an enriched yeast bread made with eggs and butter, closer to a soft loaf than to a croissant, and it should not be pictured as one. The novel does not say what shape the brioche took, and it does not say what kind of coffee he drank.

In their words

In the morning I walked down the Boulevard to the rue Soufflot for coffee and brioche. It was a fine morning. The horse-chestnut trees in the Luxembourg gardens were in bloom. There was the pleasant early-morning feeling of a hot day.
Ernest Hemingway, The Sun Also Rises (1926), Chapter 5

Served here

The dishes the books ate at this table — quoted verbatim from the text.

A cup of black coffee and a tall fluted brioche on stoneware plates — Jake Barnes's breakfast on the rue Soufflot, beside the Luxembourg gardens.

Chapter V — Jake's breakfast, alone

Coffee and a brioche on the rue Soufflot

In the morning I walked down the Boulevard to the rue Soufflot for coffee and brioche. It was a fine morning. The horse-chestnut trees in the Luxembourg gardens were in bloom.

The book's quietest meal: one man, one cup, the papers, and the chestnuts in bloom. Hemingway names the street and not the café, and the café has never been identified.

From The Sun Also Rises

Key facts

What it is
The street from the Boulevard Saint-Michel up to the Place du Panthéon
Named for
Jacques-Germain Soufflot, who designed the Panthéon — the name dates from 1807
In Hemingway's The Sun Also Rises
Where the narrator Jake Barnes has coffee and a brioche, in chapter V
The café
Not named in the novel, and not identified since
Today
Cafés on the street, the Luxembourg at one end and the Panthéon at the other
Rue Soufflot, looking up to the Panthéon the street was cut to frame.Editorial illustration
The same view at first light, before the cafés open.Editorial illustration

Timeline

  1. c. 1760

    The street is completed as far as the rue Saint-Jacques, opening a view to the Panthéon.

  2. 1807

    It is named for Jacques-Germain Soufflot, the Panthéon's architect.

  3. 1800s

    The lower section is cut through to the Boulevard Saint-Michel.

  4. 1926

    Hemingway sets Jake Barnes's breakfast here in The Sun Also Rises, at a café he does not name.

  5. Today

    Still the approach to the Panthéon, with cafés along it and the Luxembourg at the foot.

On the map

Questions before you go

Where does Jake Barnes have breakfast in Ernest Hemingway's The Sun Also Rises?

On the rue Soufflot, in the Latin Quarter between the Luxembourg gardens and the Panthéon. Jake Barnes is the novel's narrator. Hemingway names the street but not the café, and the café has never been identified.

What does he eat?

Coffee and a brioche, taken with the newspapers and a cigarette. That is the whole order. A brioche is an enriched yeast bread made with eggs and butter, not a croissant, though the novel does not say what shape it was or what kind of coffee he drank.

Can you still have breakfast where he did?

You can have coffee on the rue Soufflot, and cafés operate along it today, some using the Soufflot name. None has shown any link to the café in the book. The street is the part that can be verified.

Why does this scene matter in the novel?

It is the only morning the book shows Jake Barnes at work. After the coffee he takes an S bus to the Madeleine, walks to his office by the Opéra, and does a morning's typing. Everywhere else in the novel he is drinking, travelling or waiting.

Where is the rue Soufflot?

In the 5th arrondissement, running from the Boulevard Saint-Michel up to the Place du Panthéon. The Luxembourg gardens are across the boulevard at the lower end.

Who was Soufflot?

Jacques-Germain Soufflot, 1713 to 1780, the architect of the Panthéon. The street was laid out to give his building an approach, and has been named after him since 1807.

Related books

Cover of The Sun Also Rises by Ernest Hemingway

Setting of the story

The Sun Also Rises

Ernest Hemingway · 1926

Chapter V. Jake Barnes walks down the boulevard for coffee and a brioche before work — the only morning the novel shows him at his job. Hemingway names the street and not the café, and the café has never been identified.

Writers who knew this place

Illustrated portrait of Ernest Hemingway

Ernest Hemingway

American · Author of The Sun Also Rises and A Moveable Feast; his pared-down style, developed in 1920s Paris, became the most imitated in American prose.

Ernest Hemingway wrote about Rue Soufflot in The Sun Also Rises.

Guides featuring Rue Soufflot

Take them with you.

Within walking distance

The Friday Letter

Paris, one address at a time.

The cafés, studios, and walk-up flats where the work was made — one story from the map in every letter.

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