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Restaurant · Latin Quarter (Port-Royal) · 5e arrondissement

Chez Émile

Permanently closed

An Alsatian restaurant with an upper room at the quiet end of the Boul' Mich' — where Ford Madox Ford, Ezra Pound, and Sisley Huddleston talked for hours, and only the memoir remembers it.

Address
Bd Saint-Michel, by the Bal Bullier (exact number unrecorded), 75005 Paris
Artistic reconstructionChez Émile glowing at night, warm light through the lace curtains onto the wet pavement of the boulevard

Lamplight and lace curtains — the room where the talk ran for hours.

Artistic reconstruction

The place, briefly

Some rooms of the era survive on plaques and awnings; Chez Émile survives on a single page. Huddleston remembers the proprietor exactly — a picturesque Alsatian restaurant keeper, perpetually dressed in white twill and a high cook's bonnet — and the upper room on the Boulevard Saint-Michel, next door to the Bal Bullier's mock-oriental façade, where the quarter's talkers went when the café terraces were too public for a real conversation.

The evening he chose to preserve is the era in miniature: Ford Madox Ford, the poet-critic Pierre Loving, Ezra Pound, and Huddleston himself in the upper room, gaily playing with ideas for hours — Pound, by the memoirist's account, the merriest spirit of the party. A hundred such evenings vanished undocumented; this one had a journalist at the table.

No directory entry, no photograph, and no plaque survives that we have found — the restaurant's afterlife is Huddleston's paragraph, which is precisely why it belongs here. Some places are preserved by their fame; this one is preserved by a witness.

In their words

What a vivacious evening we spent for example in an upper room chez Emile! Emile is a picturesque Alsatian restaurant keeper, perpetually dressed in white twill clothes, and a high cook's bonnet.
Sisley Huddleston, Paris Salons, Cafés, Studios (1928)

Key facts

What it was
An Alsatian restaurant with a private upper room, next to the Bal Bullier
The proprietor
Émile — white twill clothes and a high cook's bonnet, per Huddleston
The famous evening
Ford, Pierre Loving, Pound, and Huddleston, playing with ideas for hours
Today
Gone without trace — the memoir is the only plaque
Salon à l'étage — the upper room, advertised right on the boards.Editorial illustration
Lamplight and lace curtains — the room where the talk ran for hours.Artistic reconstruction

Timeline

  1. Early 1920s

    The upper room hosts the quarter's talkers, a landmark's width from the Bullier.

  2. 1928

    Huddleston preserves the room, the proprietor, and one merry evening in print.

  3. Today

    No trace on the boulevard; the page is what remains.

On the map

Related books

Cover of Paris Salons, Cafés, Studios by Sisley Huddleston

Depicted in its pages

Paris Salons, Cafés, Studios

Sisley Huddleston · 1928

The upper room on the Boul' Mich' where Ford, Pierre Loving, Pound, and Huddleston played with ideas for hours — a room only this memoir remembers.

Writers who knew this place

Illustrated portrait of Sisley Huddleston

Sisley Huddleston

British · The Times's man in Paris — the journalist who knew every table in the quarter, French and Anglo-American alike, and wrote the era down while it was happening.

Frequented by

The upper room on the Boul' Mich' where he, Ford, Pierre Loving, and Pound gaily played with ideas for hours.

Sisley Huddleston, Paris Salons, Cafés, Studios (1928)

Within walking distance

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