Back in Paris, and the Panthéon
He returned to France in 1767 and wandered for two years under false names before coming back to Paris in 1770. The authorities left him alone on one condition: that he publish nothing more. So he copied music again for a living, wrote songs, wrote letters on botany, drafted a constitution for Poland, finished the Confessions and read them aloud in Paris drawing rooms — until Madame d'Épinay, who appears in them, had the readings stopped. His last Paris address was on the rue Plâtrière, where he lived from 1774 to 1778; the street was renamed rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau after his death, and a plaque at number 52 marks the site of the vanished house. He was also one of the celebrated regulars of the Café de la Régence, founded in 1718 on the place du Palais-Royal and known across Europe for the chess played at its tables — a plaque on the rue Saint-Honoré, where the café later stood, still lists him among them.
The long antagonism with Voltaire, France's other great writer-in-exile, ran underneath all of it. Voltaire mocked Rousseau in print as a cynic and a misanthrope, publicly revealed that he had abandoned his five children to the foundling hospital, and denounced him as seditious — a charge that helped send Rousseau's Letters Written from the Mountain, his 1764 defence of himself against the Geneva authorities, to the bonfire. In 1778 Rousseau, tired of Paris, accepted an invitation from the Marquis de Girardin, a wealthy landowner who had laid out an English-style landscape park at Ermenonville, north of the city, and admired him. He walked, collected plants, worked on the unfinished Reveries of the Solitary Walker — ten meditative essays written on his walks, and the last thing he wrote — and died there on 2 July, having learned barely a month earlier of Voltaire's death on 30 May. He was buried on the Île des Peupliers, the poplar island in Girardin's lake, which immediately became a place of pilgrimage.
The Revolution claimed him. Its leaders took their language from The Social Contract, and the National Convention — the elected assembly that governed France from 1792 to 1795 — voted to move him to the Panthéon — the domed building on the hill of Sainte-Geneviève in the 5th arrondissement, begun as a church by the architect Jacques-Germain Soufflot and converted in 1791, on the death of the revolutionary orator Mirabeau, into a burial place for the nation's great. Voltaire was carried in that same year, 1791. Rousseau followed in 1794. Neither man lived to see the Revolution that claimed them, and the two who had spent their last twenty years insulting each other now lie in the same crypt.