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Salon · Notre-Dame-des-Champs / Luxembourg · 6e arrondissement

27 Rue de Fleurus

The buildingStill standing
Getting inOutside only
What's there nowA private home

The building stands, private and plaqued.

Gertrude Stein's apartment and salon — the drawing room of modernism, where Ernest Hemingway was instructed, encouraged, and eventually indicted as part of a lost generation.

Address
27 Rue de Fleurus, 75006 Paris
Years
1903–1938
IllustrationThe entrance of 27 rue de Fleurus today, cream stone façade and black ironwork gate

The doorway today, private and plaqued.

Editorial illustration

The place, briefly

Gertrude Stein moved into the flat and adjoining atelier at 27 rue de Fleurus in 1903 with her brother Leo, and together they papered its walls with the twentieth century before the twentieth century knew what it looked like: Cézannes bought when they were affordable, Matisses bought when they were scandalous, and Picassos bought when Picasso was unknown. Alice B. Toklas arrived in 1910, Leo left in 1913, and the Saturday evenings — part salon, part tribunal — became the most consequential room in modern art.

Hemingway arrived in March 1922 carrying a letter of introduction from Sherwood Anderson, and the studio became his graduate school. Stein read his early work, told him to cut and compress, taught him about rhythm and repetition, and dispensed judgments he transcribed for the rest of his life — including, fatefully, the garage owner's phrase she aimed at his generation: une génération perdue. He put it at the front of The Sun Also Rises; she never quite got the credit back.

The friendship curdled the way apprenticeships do, and by the time Hemingway wrote A Moveable Feast the portrait of the rue de Fleurus had acquired its knives — repayment, in cruelty, for a debt he elsewhere admits is real. Stein and Toklas left for the rue Christine in 1938, before the war. The building stands, private and plaqued, around the corner from the Luxembourg; the paintings that hung in the atelier are now scattered across the museums of the world, worth more than the whole street.

Key facts

The salon
1903–1938; Saturday evenings from around 1906
Hosts
Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas (Leo Stein until 1913)
What it was
Apartment and atelier — the picture gallery and proving ground of modernism
Neighborhood
A block west of the Jardin du Luxembourg
Notable visitors
Picasso, Matisse, Braque, Apollinaire, Fitzgerald, Pound, Anderson
Today
Still a private residence; a plaque names Stein, 'writer and patron of the arts'

Documentary photographs

Archival and present-day photographs, reproduced with rights verified.

The Steins in the courtyard of 27 rue de Fleurus, c. 1905 — Leo, nephew Allan, Gertrude, Theresa Ehrman, and Sarah and Michael Stein, in the first years of the collection.c. 1905 · Bancroft Library, University of California, Berkeley · Public domain
Stein and Toklas in the atelier at 27 rue de Fleurus, photographed by Man Ray, 1922 — the paintings floor to ceiling, the two of them at either side of the hearth.1922 · Man Ray · Public domain (US)
Stein on the sofa in the rue de Fleurus studio, 1930 — beneath the collection the room was famous for.1930 · Wide World Photos, Library of Congress · Public domain
27 rue de Fleurus today — the doorway the whole modern movement once knocked at.2011 · Alinea, Wikimedia Commons · Public domain
The plaque at 27 rue de Fleurus: Gertrude Stein lived here with her brother Leo, then with Alice B. Toklas — and the artists and writers came from 1903 to 1938.Mu, Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0
The building at 27 rue de Fleurus, 2014 — the atelier stood through the courtyard, behind the street facade.2014 · David McSpadden, Wikimedia Commons · CC BY 2.0
The gate at number 27 — the most consequential doorway in modern art.Editorial illustration
The doorway today, private and plaqued.Editorial illustration

Timeline

  1. 1903

    Gertrude and Leo Stein take the flat and atelier; the collecting begins with Cézanne.

  2. 1905–07

    Stein crosses Paris to Picasso's Bateau-Lavoir studio for the portrait's eighty or ninety sittings; finished, it comes home to preside over the atelier as the Saturday salons take their form.

  3. 1910

    Alice B. Toklas moves in; Leo departs three years later, splitting the collection.

  4. 1922

    Hemingway presents his letter of introduction in March; the instruction of A Moveable Feast begins.

  5. 1926

    The 'lost generation' remark has already traveled from this room to the epigraph of Hemingway's The Sun Also Rises.

  6. 1938

    Stein and Toklas move to 5 rue Christine; the era of the rue de Fleurus ends.

  7. Today

    Private apartments; the plaque beside the door is the only exhibit left on site.

On the map

Art and film tied to this place

Picasso's portrait of Gertrude Stein, seated in three-quarter view in a brown robe, her face rendered in the mask-like planes he repainted from memory

On display here

Gertrude Stein

Pablo Picasso · 1905–6

Hung above the fireplace of the atelier from its completion until Stein and Toklas left for the rue Christine — the presiding image of the Saturday salons.

Related books

Cover of A Moveable Feast by Ernest Hemingway

Recalled in the memoir

A Moveable Feast

Ernest Hemingway · 1964

Gertrude Stein's apartment and salon, where Hemingway was instructed, encouraged, and eventually told he belonged to a lost generation.

Writers who knew this place

Illustrated portrait of Alice B. Toklas

Alice B. Toklas

American · Gertrude Stein's partner of four decades and the other half of 27 rue de Fleurus — hostess, typist, publisher, and finally the voice the salon's history was told in.

Lived here · 1910–1938

Toklas joined the Stein household in 1910 and ran it — the kitchen, the callers, and the typescripts, including the thousand pages of The Making of Americans — until she and Stein moved to the rue Christine in 1938.

— Gertrude Stein, The Autobiography of Alice B. Toklas (1933); Alice B. Toklas, What Is Remembered (1963)

Hosted gatherings here · 1910–1938

Co-host of the Saturday salons by fixed division of labor: Stein sat with the geniuses while Toklas entertained their wives — pouring tea, taking measure, and missing nothing.

— Gertrude Stein, The Autobiography of Alice B. Toklas (1933)

Illustrated portrait of Gertrude Stein

Gertrude Stein

American · Writer, collector, and host of the rue de Fleurus salon where modern art and the Lost Generation were curated in the same room.

Hosted gatherings here · 1903–1938

Gertrude Stein's Saturday-evening salon — Picasso, Matisse, and later the young expatriate writers, including Hemingway, who received both encouragement and the era's most quoted put-down here.

— Gertrude Stein, The Autobiography of Alice B. Toklas (1933); Ernest Hemingway, A Moveable Feast (1964)

Illustrated portrait of Ezra Pound

Ezra Pound

American · Modernism's impresario — editor of Eliot, publisher of Joyce, Hemingway's line-cutter, and the era's most brilliant, most compromised poet.

Frequented by · 1921–1924

A guest at Stein's Saturday evenings — remembered in the Autobiography of Alice B. Toklas as the visitor who broke the salon's little armchair.

— Gertrude Stein, The Autobiography of Alice B. Toklas (1933)

Illustrated portrait of Ernest Hemingway

Ernest Hemingway

American · Author of The Sun Also Rises and A Moveable Feast; his pared-down style, developed in 1920s Paris, became the most imitated in American prose.

Frequented by · 1922

A regular at Stein's salon from his first spring in Paris — instructed, encouraged, and eventually told he belonged to a lost generation.

— Ernest Hemingway, A Moveable Feast (1964); Gertrude Stein, The Autobiography of Alice B. Toklas (1933)

Illustrated portrait of F. Scott Fitzgerald

F. Scott Fitzgerald

American · The Jazz Age's laureate — famous at twenty-three, author of Gatsby at twenty-eight, and owner of the longest posthumous comeback in American letters.

Frequented by · 1925

Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas's salon on the rue de Fleurus, which Fitzgerald attended as part of the expatriate literary circle around Stein — the group she named the Lost Generation.

— Shakespeare and Company — French bookshop

Illustrated portrait of Djuna Barnes

Djuna Barnes

American · American writer and illustrator (1892–1982). She was a New York newspaper reporter for eight years before she was a novelist, spent the 1920s and 1930s in Paris, and wrote Nightwood, the 1936 novel T. S. Eliot took to Faber and introduced.

Frequented by

The Peggy Guggenheim Collection's biography places Barnes in Gertrude Stein's artistic circle, which centred on the Saturday salon at 27 rue de Fleurus. No particular dated visit is documented, so this is recorded as an association rather than a definite event.

— Peggy's Friends: Djuna Barnes

People who knew this place

Illustrated portrait of Pablo Picasso

Pablo Picasso

Spanish · Painter, Sculptor

A notable regular of the Saturday salons, whose paintings papered the atelier's walls before the writers arrived.

Illustrated portrait of Hadley Richardson

Hadley Richardson

American · Musician

Hadley came to the rue de Fleurus salon with Hemingway from their first Paris spring, and Stein and Toklas called at the Hemingways' flat in turn to read the early manuscripts — and stood as godmothers when Bumby was born.

Literary generation · c. 1921–1929

The Lost Generation gathered here

The writers remade by war and expatriate Paris — Hemingway, Fitzgerald, Stein, Pound, and the rooms, presses, and bookshops that turned their encounters into literature.

Enter the movement

Art movement · 1907–1914

Cubism was seen here first

The Paris movement that broke the single viewpoint and rebuilt painting from fragments — Picasso and Braque's private experiment, seen early on Gertrude Stein's walls.

Enter the movement

Art movement · c. 1918–1930

Return to Order was seen here first

The postwar swing back to classical calm — Picasso's monumental figures, a shaken Europe's appetite for order, and the tendency Jean Cocteau's essays gave a name.

Enter the movement

Within walking distance

References

References

The sources below include histories, archival materials, scholarly research, and official records that informed this page. They document 27 Rue de Fleurus, the people connected to it, and its place in Paris.

  1. 1A Moveable Feast

    Memoir
    Ernest Hemingway, 1964
    Used for

    First-person evidence and historical context used in preparing the 27 Rue de Fleurus page.

  2. 2The Autobiography of Alice B. Toklas

    Memoir
    Gertrude Stein, 1933
    Used for

    First-person evidence and historical context used in preparing the 27 Rue de Fleurus page.

  1. 3Commemorative plaque, 27 rue de Fleurus

    Official record
    Used for

    Official record used to verify names, dates, institutional details, or other factual information on this page.

  2. 4OpenStreetMap

    Map data
    Used for

    Map data used to verify addresses, geographic coordinates, and the placement associated with 27 Rue de Fleurus.

    View source
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Why these sources are here

These references provide the documented foundation for this page's history and context. Claim-level citations remain attached to the specific claims they support.

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