Paris in 1924: seven dollars and a dishwashing job
Hughes reached the Gare du Nord early one February morning in 1924. He was twenty-three years old, knew almost no one in Europe and, in The Big Sea's words, had "only seven dollars in my pockets." He soon made his way toward Montmartre and Pigalle, where Black American musicians had become an important part of Parisian nightlife after the First World War.
His first job was hardly glamorous: doorman at a small club on the rue Fontaine — the street where the much larger Zelli's drew the fashionable crowds — for five francs a night and dinner. Then he met Rayford Logan, an African American veteran living in Montmartre who had already seen Hughes's poetry in The Crisis. Logan told him that the Grand Duc, a nightclub on the rue Pigalle, needed a "second cook." Hughes took the job; the title turned out to mean dishwasher. He spent the rest of his Paris stay working under Bruce, the club's formidable one-eyed cook.
The position placed an unknown young poet inside one of the most interesting rooms in Black Paris. The Grand Duc's star was the Harlem singer Florence Embry Jones, known simply as Florence. When she left to establish her own club, her replacement was a short, freckled, red-haired American entertainer named Ada "Bricktop" Smith, who would become one of the most famous nightclub hostesses in interwar Paris. Hughes later remembered well-known writers and cultural figures among the Grand Duc's patrons, including Anita Loos, Robert McAlmon, Louis Aragon and Nancy Cunard. They should not be mistaken for personal friends of the dishwasher, but Hughes was watching a remarkable cultural world from behind the scenes.
His living arrangements were considerably less glamorous. In April he rented an attic room at 15 rue Nollet, near the place de Clichy, in a building so unpretentious that Hughes remembered its sign simply saying HOTEL. One of the most consequential visitors of his early career found him there: Alain Locke, the Howard University philosopher and critic, who admired Hughes's poems and wanted material for the special Survey Graphic issue that developed into The New Negro, the landmark 1925 anthology of the Harlem Renaissance. Later Hughes moved to another attic on the rue des Trois Frères, climbing farther into Montmartre. Hughes remembered the sophisticated philosopher, with his Oxford background and elegant manner, appearing at the young poet's cheap rue Nollet lodging just before that move.
The encounter summarizes Hughes's position in 1924: he was still washing dishes for a living, but the people building one of the most important Black literary movements in American history were already looking for him. Paris also placed Hughes inside the musical world that would become essential to his writing. Clubs, singers, pianists and late-night performances were part of his working environment rather than material observed from a respectable distance, and his first poetry collection, The Weary Blues, would emerge from precisely this meeting of literature and Black music.